Azelaic acid - strength in gentleness

The primary action of chemical peels is to accelerate the shedding of dead skin cells and stimulate skin regeneration. Azelaic acid stands out for its unique combination of efficacy and gentleness—it regulates the keratinization process without the sudden, intense peeling often associated with other acids.

Key mechanisms of action of azelaic acid:

• Antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and keratolytic actions that regulate cellular renewal
• Antibacterial effects without causing bacterial resistance with long-term use
• Inhibition of sebum secretion and regulation of skin keratinization, especially in oily skin
• Evening out skin tone as a tyrosinase inhibitor

Azelic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid that naturally occurs in grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. Interestingly, despite its plant origin, the acid itself in cosmetics and medications is gluten-free - it does not contain gluten proteins, making it safe for individuals with gluten intolerance.

The antibacterial action of azelaic acid involves a direct effect on the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The acid exhibits a bacteriostatic effect - it inhibits the multiplication of microorganisms, which reduces the number of lesions. Importantly, it does not cause bacterial resistance with long-term use, which cannot be said for antibiotics.

Equally important is its effect on the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase, which converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Azelaic acid inhibits the activity of this enzyme, thereby regulating sebum secretion and preventing seborrhea and the formation of comedones.

Rosacea manifests itself with erythema, redness, and visible blood vessels (telangiectasia). Azelaic acid works anti-inflammatory - it reduces papules and pustules, and also decreases the skin's reactivity to irritants. Skin with visible blood vessels benefits from it by gaining a more uniform tone, and the redness becomes less intense.

Benefits for rosacea-prone skin:

• Reduction of erythema and redness characteristic of this condition
• Decreased visibility of telangiectasia and blood vessels
• Soothing of papules and pustules without excessive irritation
• Minimization of flare-ups and improvement of overall skin comfort

Azelaic acid inhibits melanogenesis by affecting tyrosinase - a key enzyme responsible for melanin production. Its depigmenting action effectively reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation types PIH (brown spots) and PIE (post-inflammatory erythema, red marks), which often appear after acne lesions. Melasma, also known as chloasma, is one of the most persistent types of hyperpigmentation, which is difficult to remove - azelaic acid lightens these changes by inhibiting the excessive production of melanin in melanocytes.

Azeloyl glycine is a derivative of azelaic acid combined with glycine, which has milder effects and better moisturizing properties. For sensitive skin, azeloyl glycine may be a better choice initially - it works gently while maintaining effectiveness. Pure azelaic acid has a stronger effect but requires a skin acclimatization period. If your skin reacts with irritation to many active ingredients, start with azeloyl glycine and observe the reaction.

In cosmetics, the concentration of azelaic acid is usually 5-10%, which is sufficient for starting a treatment. Pharmaceutical preparations such as Skinoren or Acne-Derm contain 15-20% acid, which provides faster results but also carries a greater risk of irritation. Professional serums and creams from The Ordinary or Dermomedica offer various concentrations - higher doses may be more effective but increase the risk of burning and tingling, especially at the beginning of use.

Azelaic acid works great with niacinamide, which strengthens the hydrolipid barrier and brightens discolorations. This combination provides a synergistic effect in reducing inflammation and improving skin tone - both ingredients support each other without competing for a spot in your skincare routine.

Ingredients safe to combine with azelaic acid:

• Niacinamide for barrier strengthening and brightening discolorations
• Hyaluronic acid for deep hydration
• Ceramides for restoring the epidermal barrier function
• Panthenol for supporting regeneration and protection against water loss
• Vitamin C for enhanced brightening effects
• Allantoin for soothing irritations

Combining azelaic acid with strong AHA acids, BHA acids (such as salicylic acid), or retinoids in one routine can lead to excessive skin irritation. Isotretinoin should also not be used simultaneously with azelaic acid without medical consultation - it is too much of a burden for the skin.

The solution is to separate the ingredients - use retinol in the evening and azelaic acid in the morning, or use them on different days of the week. Bakuchiol, as an alternative to retinol, is better tolerated with azelaic acid, but also requires caution and monitoring of the skin's reaction. Listen to your skin - if redness or burning occurs, reduce the frequency of application.

Azelic acid should be applied to thoroughly cleansed and completely dried skin, avoiding the eye and mouth areas. Long-term treatment requires patience - the effects come gradually, but they are lasting and visible.

Schedule of effects during treatment:

1. First 2 weeks - skin adaptation, possible tingling and burning sensation
2. 4-8 weeks - first visible effects, reduction of inflammation
3. 3 months - full results, significant reduction of discoloration

At the beginning of use, a phenomenon known as purging may occur - skin cleansing during which breakouts appear. This is a natural reaction as the skin accelerates the cell renewal cycle. Do not stop the treatment - after this period, the skin significantly improves.

Although azelaic acid does not cause photosensitivity, sun protection is absolutely necessary during treatment. A SPF 30 or 50 filter protects the renewing epidermis from the effects of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), which exacerbate inflammaging - aging caused by inflammatory conditions. Regular use of sunscreen prevents the formation of new discolorations and protects the effects of the treatment - it is the foundation of every effective therapy.

The treatment using this acid at the Beauty Embassy is an excellent solution for starting your adventure with acids, as well as when you want to avoid excessive skin peeling. The acid acts gently, without significant recovery time - you can return to your daily activities immediately after the treatment. It is very effective in combating acne in both young and older individuals, as well as in pregnant and breastfeeding women due to its low permeability into the circulatory system (less than 4%).

Do you want to find out which acid treatment will be best for you? Schedule a free consultation at our clinic, and we will tell you how to achieve the most effective results for you.