Azelaic acid - strength in gentleness
What azelaic acid does to the skin – key facts:
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Concentration determines the pace – cosmetics 5-10%, pharmacy products 15-20%, professional peel – the strongest option.
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Safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding – alongside lactic and mandelic acid, it is considered gentle.
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Gradual effects – first changes after 4-8 weeks, full results after 3 months.
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In our offer – Azelac peel, Dermaquest Azelaic Peel, and needle mesotherapy with azelaic acid and zinc, selected during a free consultation.
Table of Contents
- How does azelaic acid work?
- Natural origin from cereal grains and the structure of dicarboxylic acid
- Role in inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase and combating Cutibacterium acnes bacteria
- Therapy for rosacea, erythema and telangiectasia
- Melasma, chloasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation of PIH and PIE type
- Azeloyl Glycine or Pure Azelaic Acid - What to Choose for Sensitive Skin?
- Concentrations in serums and creams - differences between a 5% and 20% dose
- Safe combination with niacinamide, ceramides and hyaluronic acid
- Can retinol and AHA/BHA acids be used during one treatment?
- Proper application, the purging phenomenon and waiting time for results
- The necessity of using SPF filters and the protection of the hydrolipid barrier
- Who are azelaic acid treatments for?
- How to start azelaic acid therapy?
- Najczęściej zadawane pytania o kwas azelainowy
How does azelaic acid work?
The effect results from several mechanisms working in parallel. The acid regulates keratinization without sudden, intense peeling of the epidermis, while also acting on bacteria, inflammation, and skin tone.
Key mechanisms of action:
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Antiseptic and anti-inflammatory – calms inflammatory lesions and renews the epidermis.
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Antibacterial – without bacterial resistance during long-term use.
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Sebum-regulating – especially noticeable with oily skin.
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Brightening – as a tyrosinase inhibitor, it reduces melanin production.
Natural origin from cereal grains and the structure of dicarboxylic acid
Azelaic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid occurring naturally in cereal grains: wheat, rye, and barley. Despite its plant origin, it is gluten-free, so it can also be used by people with gluten intolerance.
Role in inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase and combating Cutibacterium acnes bacteria
The antibacterial action consists of a direct effect on the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The acid inhibits their multiplication, which reduces the number of lesions, and does not cause resistance with long-term use. It also blocks the 5-alpha reductase enzyme, which converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), thereby regulating sebum secretion and preventing the formation of comedones.
Therapy for rosacea, erythema and telangiectasia
Rosacea manifests as erythema, redness, and visible capillaries (telangiectasias). Azelaic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect, reduces papules and pustules, and reduces skin reactivity to irritants.
Benefits for couperose skin:
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Less erythema and redness – skin tone becomes more even.
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Less visible telangiectasias – capillaries no longer dominate.
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Milder papules and pustules – without excessive irritation.
Melasma, chloasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation of PIH and PIE type
Azelaic acid inhibits melanogenesis by affecting tyrosinase – the enzyme responsible for melanin production. It lightens post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation of the PIH (brown spots) and PIE (red marks) types, which remain after acne lesions.
Melasma, or chloasma, is among the most stubborn discolorations. Here, too, reducing melanin production helps, which is why the acid is sometimes an ingredient in Cosmelan and Dermamelan medical peels.
Azeloyl Glycine or Pure Azelaic Acid - What to Choose for Sensitive Skin?
For skin that reacts with irritation to many active ingredients, a safer start is azeloglycine – a derivative of azelaic acid combined with glycine, with a milder effect and better hydration. Pure acid works stronger, but requires the skin to get used to it, so start with a milder form.
Concentrations in serums and creams - differences between a 5% and 20% dose
In cosmetics, the concentration of azelaic acid is usually 5-10% and this level is sufficient for starting the treatment. Pharmacy preparations contain 15-20% acid: they work faster, but more frequently cause irritation, burning, and tingling.
How to choose the concentration for the stage of treatment:
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Cosmetics with a lower concentration – first contact with the acid and maintenance care.
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Pharmacy preparations 15-20% – more intensive treatments for acne and hyperpigmentation.
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Professional peel – the highest concentrations and the fastest action on hyperpigmentation.
Safe combination with niacinamide, ceramides and hyaluronic acid
Azelaic acid works wonderfully with niacinamide, which strengthens the hydrolipid barrier and brightens discolorations. Both ingredients support each other without competing for a place in your skincare routine.
It can also be safely combined with hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and panthenol, which hydrate and rebuild the epidermal barrier, as well as with vitamin C and allantoin.
Can retinol and AHA/BHA acids be used during one treatment?
Combining azelaic acid with strong AHA acids, BHA acids (such as salicylic) or retinoids in a single routine usually leads to excessive irritation. Isotretinoin is also not used concurrently without medical consultation.
The solution is to separate the ingredients over time: retinol in the evening, azelaic acid in the morning, or on different days of the week. Bakuchiol tends to be better tolerated in such a duo, but it also requires observing the skin.
Proper application, the purging phenomenon and waiting time for results
The product is applied to thoroughly cleansed and completely dry skin, avoiding the area around the eyes and mouth.
Timeline of results:
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First 2 weeks – skin adaptation, possible tingling and burning.
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4-8 weeks – first visible effects and reduction of inflammation.
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About 3 months – full results and reduction of discoloration.
At the beginning, purging may occur – skin purging, during which breakouts appear. This is a natural reaction to the accelerated cell renewal cycle, so do not discontinue the treatment.
The necessity of using SPF filters and the protection of the hydrolipid barrier
Azelaic acid does not cause photosensitivity, yet sun protection is necessary during treatment. An SPF 30 or 50 filter protects the regenerating epidermis, prevents new discoloration, and maintains the results.
Who are azelaic acid treatments for?
The treatment using this acid at Ambasada Urody works well at the beginning of your journey with acids and when you want to avoid excessive epidermal peeling. The acid acts gently, without significant downtime – you return to daily activities immediately after the treatment.
It helps with acne in young and older people, as well as pregnant and breastfeeding women – azelaic, lactic, and mandelic acids are considered safe for the skin of an expectant mother during this period.
Azelaic acid is used in the clinic in several forms:
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Azelac normalizing peel – for normal, thick, non-sensitive, and vascular skin.
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Dermaquest Azelaic Peel – azelaic acid with lactic and kojic acid; for rosacea, hypersensitivity, and inflammation without purulent lesions.
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Needle mesotherapy with azelaic acid and zinc – strongly anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and sebo-regulating, recommended for active papulopustular acne.
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Geneo X – contains hyaluronic, azelaic, and kojic acids, as well as retinol.
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Microdermabrasion and LED therapy – microdermabrasion increases skin permeability and facilitates the penetration of active substances, while LED is performed right after the treatment.
How to start azelaic acid therapy?
The starting point is assessing the condition of the skin – a different solution will work for active acne, and a different one for broken capillaries and discoloration. Book a free consultation, check in which form this acid will work most effectively for you, and give the treatment the few weeks it really needs!
Najczęściej zadawane pytania o kwas azelainowy
Czy kwas azelainowy rozjaśnia całą skórę?
Kwas azelainowy wyrównuje koloryt, hamując produkcję melaniny tam, gdzie powstały przebarwienia – naturalny odcień zdrowej cery pozostaje bez zmian. Działa wybiórczo na nadaktywne melanocyty i stopniowo zmniejsza kontrast między plamą a resztą skóry.
Jak odróżnić purging od podrażnienia?
Purging pojawia się tam, gdzie zwykle wychodzą wykwity, i ustępuje po kilku tygodniach. Podrażnienie daje pieczenie, rumień i szorstkość w miejscach wcześniej spokojnych – wtedy zmniejsz częstotliwość aplikacji i wróć do kuracji, gdy skóra się uspokoi.
Czym różni się domowa kuracja od serii zabiegów w gabinecie?
Pielęgnacja domowa opiera się na niższych stężeniach, działa wolniej i służy utrzymaniu efektów. Seria zabiegów wykorzystuje wyższe stężenia i szybciej pracuje na przebarwieniach oraz zmianach zapalnych.
Kiedy kwas azelainowy to za mało?
Przy nasilonym trądziku ropnym czy zmianach torbielowatych potrzebna jest konsultacja lekarska i leczenie dobrane do przyczyny. Kwas azelainowy pozostaje wtedy wsparciem pielęgnacyjnym.
We recommend
Normalization peeling for problematic and couperose skin
Azelac azelaic acid is a specialized peeling intended for normal, thick, insensitive, and couperose skin. It exhibits strong anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant effects, making it an ideal solution for people struggling with skin issues such as acne, seborrhea, discoloration, or erythema. By regulating sebum secretion, it improves the condition of oily skin, while reducing inflammatory conditions and acne lesions. Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity, helping to even out the skin tone and reduce discoloration. Additionally, it normalizes the skin's cornification process, making the skin smoother and more even. It is also safe for couperose skin, as it reduces redness and strengthens blood vessels.
When is it worth using azelaic peeling?
The treatment is recommended for people who:
- Have seborrheic skin prone to oiliness - regulates sebum secretion.
- Are dealing with common acne (inflammatory and non-inflammatory) - reduces pustules and inflammatory conditions.
- Have rosacea - has a soothing effect, reduces redness and irritations.
- Suffer from folliculitis - supports the treatment of inflammatory changes.
- Have a tendency to hyperpigmentation (melasma, hyperpigmentation) - evens out the skin tone.
- Have couperose skin - reduces redness, strengthens blood vessels, has a soothing effect.
- Are struggling with psoriasis - helps normalize the skin's cornification process.
Skin types:
Azelac azelaic acid peeling is intended for people with:
- Normal skin - requiring even skin tone and improved skin structure.
- Thick and insensitive skin - resistant to more intense action of active ingredients.
- Couperose skin - prone to redness, redness, and irritations, requiring gentle strengthening therapy.
Treatment effects:
- Reduction of inflammatory conditions and pustules - has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects.
- Sebum secretion regulation - limits skin oiliness.
- Reduction of redness and erythema - ideal for couperose and acne-prone skin.
- Skin tone evening out - lightening of discolorations and reduction of melasma.
- Normalization of skin cornification - smoothing and improvement of skin structure.
- Antioxidant action - protection against free radicals and delaying aging processes.
Treatment frequency:
- The recommended series is 4-6 treatments every 2-3 weeks, depending on the skin condition.
- It can be used throughout the year, but it is recommended to use sun protection.
Azelac azelaic acid peeling is an excellent option for individuals struggling with acne, erythema, and discolorations who need an effective yet safe normalizing therapy. Thanks to its cleansing, soothing, and skin tone evening effects, the skin is healthier, smoother, and more radiant after the treatment.
