Peptides
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Peptides are compounds composed of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. They are shorter fragments of proteins and perform signaling, regulatory, transport, and structural functions in the body. In cosmetology, short natural, synthetic, and biomimetic peptides are primarily used, whose sequences mimic fragments of molecules naturally occurring in the skin. Depending on their structure, they can influence fibroblast activity, extracellular matrix organization, pigmentation, inflammatory processes, or neuromuscular transmission. Peptides are ingredients in anti-aging, regenerating, and brightening cosmetics, as well as preparations used during mesotherapy. Their actual effect depends on the type of molecule, concentration, formulation stability, delivery system, and the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum.
Peptides - what are they?
The basic building block of a peptide is an amino acid. Two amino acids form a dipeptide, three form a tripeptide, and longer chains are referred to as oligopeptides or polypeptides. The boundary between a peptide and a protein is arbitrary; however, peptides are usually smaller, have a simpler spatial structure, and can act at very low concentrations.
Their biological activity stems primarily from the amino acid sequence, meaning the order of amino acids in the molecule. The sequence determines which receptor, enzyme, metal ion, or cell membrane component the peptide can interact with. A change of a single amino acid can significantly modify the properties of the entire molecule.
Chemically modified peptides are also used in cosmetics. Attaching a fatty acid chain, such as palmitic acid, increases the molecule's lipophilicity and can facilitate its contact with the lipid layer of the epidermis. Other systems that improve peptide bioavailability include liposomes, nanoemulsions, and polymeric carriers.
The epidermal barrier remains a key factor limiting their action. Most peptides are hydrophilic, relatively large, and susceptible to enzymatic degradation. For this reason, the activity demonstrated in cell cultures may exceed the results obtained after applying the cosmetic to the surface of the skin. An evaluation of a product should therefore take into account the entire formulation, the quality of clinical studies, and the ingredient delivery method.
Peptides - how do they work on the skin?
Peptides can participate in communication between cells and in the regulation of processes occurring in the epidermis and dermis. Their mechanism depends on the specific sequence, which is why the term “peptides” encompasses a group of substances with diverse properties.
The main directions of action include:
- regulation of the extracellular matrix by influencing fibroblasts, the synthesis of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and glycosaminoglycans;
- transport of trace elements that participate as cofactors in enzymatic reactions;
- modulating neurotransmitter release, which can reduce the visibility of fine lines associated with facial expressions;
- influencing melanogenesis, that is, the multi-step process of melanin production and distribution;
- supporting the epidermal barrier and repair processes;
- modulating the inflammatory response and oxidative stress to the extent specific to a given molecule.
Signal peptides can act like matrix protein fragments released during its physiological remodeling. Such a fragment conveys information to cells about the need to initiate repair processes. An example is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, whose sequence is derived from a fragment of type I procollagen. In a controlled clinical trial, a cosmetic product containing this peptide improved selected parameters of fine wrinkles compared to the vehicle.
The mechanism of neurotransmitter-modulating peptides remains different from the action of botulinum toxin. Cosmetic peptides act superficially and have a significantly lower biological potential, whereas botulinum toxin is a medicinal product administered by injection into precisely selected muscles.
Types of peptides in cosmetics
The classification of peptides is primarily based on the predominant mechanism of action.
Peptide type | Mechanism | Examples of ingredients |
Signal peptides | They transmit signals to cells related to extracellular matrix remodeling | Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 |
Carrier peptides | They bind and transport metal ions needed by enzymes involved in tissue renewal | Copper Tripeptide-1, or GHK-Cu |
Neurotransmitter-modulating peptides | They affect the stages of mediator release responsible for the contraction of facial muscles | Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18 |
Enzyme-inhibiting peptides | They modulate enzymes involved, among others, in the degradation of matrix components or melanogenesis | Selected oligopeptides of synthetic and plant origin |
Depigmenting peptides | They affect melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, or melanosome transfer | Oligopeptide-34, Oligopeptide-51, Nonapeptide-1 |
Soothing peptides | They affect mediators of skin reactivity and inflammatory response | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15 |
Copper peptides, especially GHK-Cu, are among the best understood in terms of biological activity. GHK is a natural tripeptide present in plasma and tissues. After binding a copper ion, it participates in repair processes, matrix remodeling, and the regulation of the activity of numerous genes. A significant portion of the data comes from laboratory studies and healing models, which is why cosmetic results should be interpreted in relation to the specific formulation.
Biomimetic peptides are developed to mimic the sequence and function of physiological signaling molecules. This term describes a design principle while also representing a broad technological category. Each biomimetic peptide requires an individual evaluation of its mechanism, concentration, route of administration, and the quality of clinical documentation.
Peptides - what to combine with in skincare?
Peptides work best as part of a comprehensive skincare routine aimed at protecting the epidermal barrier, reducing photoaging, and improving the tolerance of active ingredients.
It is worth combining them with:
- ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, which support the rebuilding of stratum corneum lipids;
- hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and betaine, which increase stratum corneum hydration and provide a fast smoothing effect;
- niacinamide, which supports the epidermal barrier, evens out skin tone, and regulates the inflammatory response;
- retinoids, which have a well-documented impact on epidermal renewal and the synthesis of extracellular matrix components;
- vitamin C and other antioxidants, which support protection against oxidative stress and processes related to collagen synthesis;
- broad-spectrum sunscreens, which form the foundation of photoaging prevention.
In the case of sensitive skin, the gradual introduction of subsequent substances can be beneficial. Peptides can be applied once or twice daily according to the manufacturer's recommendations. The serum is most commonly applied after cleansing the skin, followed by a moisturizer. The morning routine should end with photoprotection.
Combining copper peptides with formulations that have a very acidic pH or a strong oxidizing potential requires considering the stability of the specific product. The simplest solution is to separate the products between morning and evening routines. Retinoids, exfoliating acids, and ascorbic acid can cause irritation regardless of the presence of peptides; therefore, the frequency of their use should match the skin's tolerance.
Peptides - effects of use and professional treatments
Systematic peptide skincare can bring a gradual improvement in hydration, smoothness, elasticity, and the appearance of fine wrinkles. The extent of the effect depends on the specific peptide, its bioavailability, and the duration of use. A change in perceived hydration may appear earlier, whereas processes related to matrix remodeling usually require many weeks of regular care.
The most commonly expected results include:
- smoothing of the skin's surface;
- improved softness and elasticity;
- reduced appearance of fine lines;
- support for regeneration and the epidermal barrier;
- a more even skin tone;
- improved appearance of dry, mature, or UV-exposed skin.
Clinical evidence for individual peptides varies in quality. Some results stem from in vitro studies, small clinical trials, or raw material manufacturers' documentation. The most reliable assessment is the evaluation of the finished product in a randomized controlled trial, as the mere presence of a peptide on the INCI list provides a limited basis for predicting the result.
At Ambasada Urody, peptides are included in procedures tailored to the area and the skin's needs. These include:
- Aquashine mesotherapy, combining non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid with a complex of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals for revitalization, hydration, and improved elasticity;
- Aquashine BR, targeted at hydration, regeneration, and evening out skin tone using biomimetic peptides with depigmenting properties;
- Aquashine BTX, containing a peptide complex designed to improve skin firmness and the appearance of mimic wrinkles, acting through a mechanism different from botulinum toxin;
- needle mesotherapy of the eye area, where peptides, amino acids, vitamins, and hyaluronic acid support hydration, elasticity, and the condition of thin skin;
- needle mesotherapy for the face and body, enabling the intradermal administration of products containing biomimetic peptides and other active substances;
- microneedle mesotherapy, used in programs aimed at improving skin structure, scars, and hyperpigmentation, with the option of using sterile peptide preparations designed for the specific procedure;
- Rich Hair Forte scalp peptide therapy, containing, among others, Copper Tripeptide-1, Biotinyl Tripeptide-1, Decapeptide-18, and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, intended for programs supporting hair follicles;
- Dermaheal LL body mesotherapy, utilizing biomimetic peptides in the treatment of localized adipose tissue, cellulite, and reduced skin firmness.
Topically applied cosmetics, microneedle mesotherapy, and intradermal injection represent distinct methods of substance delivery. Procedures that compromise skin integrity require qualification, adherence to aseptic rules, and the use of products intended for the specific route of administration. The selection of therapy should take into account the condition of the skin, chronic diseases, current medications, susceptibility to healing disorders, and the expected outcome.
